Like a snapshot taken of a seaside promenade on a summer day some time ago, or at least just somewhere else than here, the GOETZE SS20 collection brings together an array of protagonists seemingly unrelated, coexisting in this particular time and space. We believe we can spot the tourist and maybe over there the worker and some teenagers and certainly the flaneur. A bowling shirt in turquoise satin blows in the breeze, olive cargo pants stomp through the sandy street, yellow striped boxy t-shirts lounge on the corner shop with nothing particular in mind, sophisticated high waist pants in a classic houndstooth check meander through the crowd, the blue stripes on seersucker cotton resemble the windshield of the terrace on a beach, a waiter hands you a drink, his uniform shirt says GOETZE. This scenery is where GOETZE takes us for Spring-Summer 20. The collection is crafted in light satins, seersucker, cotton jacquard, linen and light summer wools. The colours bring back memories from times spent by the sea; light turquoise, navy, white and yellow juxtaposed with brown, olive and khaki. The silhouettes remain cropped and boxy with high waist pants. Fragmented Mediterranean print motifs are patched on classic menswear shirts, creating a graphic and slightly assembled look.
Understanding the nuances of appropriate taste is something people acquire over time in their social environment. The GOETZE AW19 collection is dedicated to the charming misunderstandings that happen when new elements are introduced into one’s wardrobe, especially when they originate from an unfamiliar context. When a small town boy aspires to be a latin lover or a teenager purchases a shirt for his first job interview. The slight and clumsy shifts of materiality, proportion or the overall styling are what inform the current collection. Set in this mood materials usually associated with GOETZE like crisp cotton or wool are enhanced with printed satin silk, corduroy or quilted cotton. Combining materials with contrasting shine adds depth to the pieces, of which many are executed in shades of black, grey and white. First time the GOETZE logo appears on the clothing itself, as a nametag above the left breast pocket reminding us of bank clerks or mechanics. The parallel story lines of characters aspiring to actualize a new idea of themselves leads to an eclecticism of motives which make this collection one the boldest of GOETZE to date.
Somewhere in German suburban landscapes, where checked shirting is worn with cargo Bermuda pants the SS19 collection of GOETZE is located. At times more drastic and sometimes more subtly these references are altered in proportion and merged with signature elements of the brand. The colour range of white, light blue, khaki, and eggplant also draws inspiration from this suburban atmosphere. GOETZE re-appropriates this aesthetic and introduces a fresh take on best sellers in commercial menswear. Pockets of cargo pants are inserted in high-waist trousers executed in classic checked wool and thereby make an element of classic work wear seem elegant. A classic summer suit is reinterpreted in a zip-up short sleeve shirt and wide high waist trousers making it a perfectly adaptable street wear silhouette. Shirts are heavily cropped, promoting a boxy and youthful silhouette. GOETZE continues the renegotiation of classic menswear items in an eclectic mix of detail and material. Subtle changes in almost identical materials create a slightly assembled look, whereas silver and gold plated logo key rings and logo pins add a carefully decorated element to the collection.
The A/W 18 collection draws inspiration from iconic aesthetics of the nineteen-nineties: a layered and assembled look, t-shirts worn over long sleeves, white contrast stitching in juxtaposition to the conservatism of Wall Street bankers. In this eclectic mood with interchanging graphic details, the overall look of the collection seems patch-worked, yet sophisticated with its slightly conservative materials. The outfits are then completed with classic pants and knitwear. The signature GOETZE look will remain, yet more focused and concentrated on the core products, which the label is best known for - the shirt.
For SS18 GOETZE introduces a collection influenced by 90s streetwear elements and classical Mediterranean summer wardrobe. The signature GOETZE sleeve construction, the meticulous attention to details, the precise finishing conjoin the relaxed fits of the SS18 pieces, evoking an effortless sportive appeal. Once again GOETZE teamed up with illustrator Tony Stella, to create a playful horses head shirting print. This classical figurative motif, executed in a delicate sky-blue aquarelle, stands in juxtaposition to the very geometrically constructed GOETZE shirts. GOETZE merges contrary concepts, continuously reinterpreting essential sports and workwear elements with a contemporary and luxurious touch.
Set in a material environment of re-appropriated functional buildings of former socialist Berlin and with a loving nod to their inhabitants, G O E T Z E injected some new into their A/W 17 wardrobe. The office worker’s proper blue shirt and the buttoned track pants of the cool kids from the block both found their way into this collection. The colours represent both architecture and interior of this scenario with warm shades of beige and brown being placed in hard contrast to cement and stone grey, even being combined in a range of two-tone items. G O E T Z E continues to execute the collection ideas in a range of high quality and luxurious fabrics from cashmere blends to double-face faux-shearling and sportive tech-materials.